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JEFF KOEHLER

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August 15th, 2007

savor: Tunisia/ Tunis

EBBA BAB JEDID or OUELD EBBA
near Bab Jedid gate
Tunis

“Roi de Leblebi,” so the sign reads. Indeed. Leblebi (or lablabi) is chickpea soup, a market stall favorite. Around the country, I heard about this place just outside one of the ancient gates of Tunis. It’s hard to find, and consists of little more than a big kettle of beans simmering behind a simple wooden counter. Hearty glazed terracotta bowls stacked upside down indicate that leblebi is served. The process goes something like this: tear up a piece of bread and fill one of the bowls yourself. The man behind the counter then ladles in some soup, adds a mix of spices (cumin, caraway, turmeric, salt), and then a bit of local, deep green olive oil. It’s good, cheap, and filling.
Price: less than $1.50 for a bowl.
Drinks: ask for a bottle of Coke and someone will be sent to a nearby shop to get it for you.

Posted by jeffkoehler in  savor: Tunisia  |  

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