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JEFF KOEHLER

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June 30th, 2012

café bombón

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In Spain, an espresso with condensed milk is called a café bombón (bonbon) or else a biberón (baby bottle). On hot days like today, serve it with ice.

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June 29th, 2012

vermut

An afternoon vermut—literally vermouth, but meaning a vermouth, or glass of wine, with a nibble or two, in this case some hand-sliced jamón ibérico and olives from Jaén.(The vermouth is the incomparable Martínez Lacuesta, from Haro, La Rioja, which manages to be both bitter and sweet.)

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June 27th, 2012

A Moroccan Feast (19 C)

From a memoir by Sir John Drummond-Hay, an English minister at the Moroccan court,  published by John Murray in 1896. Many of the dishes remain quite familiar.

…At last the signal was given and the party entered another room, where a table had been laid in European style.

The menu was as follows:

Roast pigeons, stuffed chickens, stewed lamb, turkey with almonds, and highly flavoured siksu [couscous]; olives in oil; oranges cut in sections and spiced, served as a vegetable; salad of olives and mint; eggs poached with olives and oil; chicken fricassee, with a rich egg sauce; chickens with red butter a piquante sauce; stewed mutton with fried eggs; chickens stewed with almonds and sweetened.

Dry siksu; rice made up in a sort of porridge; bowls of new milk; almond tart, flavoured with musk; pastry dipped in honey.

Dessert: oranges, almonds, raisins, nuts, and fourteen dishes of confectionery, including kab ghazal, or gazelle hoofs, little cakes of that form, from which they take their name, made of pastry thickly iced and filled with a concoction of almonds.

A pleasant preparation of unripe figs, much resembling chutney, was served with the stewed lamb.

The only beverage was water, slightly flavoured with musk and essence of citron flowers.

Of this menu the turkey, the fricassees of chicken and the dry siksu, were pronounced excellent, but some of the other dishes were horrible concoctions.

He adds:

The servants reported afterwards that as many dishes as had been served remained outside untasted; but that the steward, observing how little was eaten, promptly brought the banquet to a close and produced coffee, well made, but curiously flavoured.

(The full text of the book can be seen here. This excerpt was also quoted in The Conquest of Morocco.)

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June 23rd, 2012

Sant Joan

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Celebrating this nit de foc (night of fire) with cava and traditional coca de llardons… a flaky puff pastry flat bread with sugar, pine nuts and crunchy fried pork skin.

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June 16th, 2012

Rif Mountain Omelet with Wild Mushrooms

This week, as the guest blogger for Chronicle Books, I wrote about one of my favorite recipes in my new Morocco  book, a Rif Mountain omelet with wild mushrooms. You can find the piece — and the recipe — here. Enjoy!

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All text and images are ©Jeff Koehler 2007-2009 and cannot be used without his written permission.