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Addresses: The Sahara and Deep South


what to eat: camel. Look for grilled camel paddies.

souq day: Saturday. But the important camel market is everyday on the outskirts of town. Camels are sold largely for food, not for transport.

if you have a 4×4: head directly to Fort Bou Jerif, a wonderful hotel beside an abandoned French Foreign Legion outpost. The journey along the rough track is rewarding and worthwhile.

specialty here: simple beef or camel tagines cooked over charcoal.


stay: Bab el Maâdar.

look for in the souq: local crystallized mastic-like resin to thicken teas and sweets.

dried mussels: yes. Soak overnight before using.

Sidi Ifni

hangout: that is about all there is to do. And surf.

semi-hippy place to stay: La Suerte Loca. 7, Avenue Moulay Youssef

eat: mussel tagine at La Suerte Loca.

souq day: Sundays on the old airstrip.

market: fish arrives in open-air municipal market in afternoon.

Sidi Akhfennir (Laâyoune)

stay: La Courbine d’Argent.

eat: local fish from some of most fertile grounds in the entire region.

All text and images are ©Jeff Koehler 2007-2009 and cannot be used without his written permission.