what to eat: camel. Look for grilled camel paddies.
souq day: Saturday. But the important camel market is everyday on the outskirts of town. Camels are sold largely for food, not for transport.
if you have a 4×4: head directly to Fort Bou Jerif, a wonderful hotel beside an abandoned French Foreign Legion outpost. The journey along the rough track is rewarding and worthwhile.
specialty here: simple beef or camel tagines cooked over charcoal.
stay: Bab el Maâdar.
look for in the souq: local crystallized mastic-like resin to thicken teas and sweets.
dried mussels: yes. Soak overnight before using.
hangout: that is about all there is to do. And surf.
semi-hippy place to stay: La Suerte Loca. 7, Avenue Moulay Youssef.
eat: mussel tagine at La Suerte Loca.
souq day: Sundays on the old airstrip.
market: fish arrives in open-air municipal market in afternoon.
Sidi Akhfennir (Laâyoune)
stay: La Courbine d’Argent.
eat: local fish from some of most fertile grounds in the entire region.