a sublime treat: amlou, a ground mixture of argan oil, almonds, and honey. Dip warm flatbread into it for breakfast or an afternoon snack.
to stay and to eat: Dar Daïf.
to order at Dar Daïf: pigeon stuffed with date and almond paste and served with sweet pasta.
best salad: chilled sweet pumpkin squash salad.
a treat: date ice cream.
best terrace overlooking the kasbah for a tea: Dar Mouna.
look for: flatbread made in an earthen oven lined with small, smooth river pebbles, which gives the bottom of the bread a lovely dimpled texture.
ALONG THE DRAÂ VALLEY
what to do: drive slowly along the snaking, 80-mile-long riverine oasis of date palms and high-walled earthen compounds.
to buy: date marmalade.
best souk along valley: Agdz. It is held on Thursdays.
most luxurious and secluded place to stay: Dar Ahlam in the Skoura Oasis. Relais & Châteaux boutique property.
to stay in a pisé house in the medina at the edge of the palm grove: Dar Raha.
what to do: ask Antoine at Dar Raha to arrange a guide to take you through the labyrinth palm grove.
to eat: “Berber tagine” of eggs and vegetables.
souk day: Sunday. Don’t miss. Best in entire region, drawing from desert and Anti-Atlas hills.
what is customary to receive as a visitor in someone’s home: dates and a glass of milk.