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JEFF KOEHLER

  • writer
  • photographer
  • cook
  • traveler

Addresses: Central Morocco and the Anti-Atlas

a sublime treat: amlou, a ground mixture of argan oil, almonds, and honey. Dip warm flatbread into it for breakfast or an afternoon snack.

OUARZAZATE

to stay and to eat: Dar Daïf.

to order at Dar Daïf: pigeon stuffed with date and almond paste and served with sweet pasta.

best salad: chilled sweet pumpkin squash salad.

a treat: date ice cream.

AÏT BENHADDOU

best terrace overlooking the kasbah for a tea: Dar Mouna.

look for: flatbread made in an earthen oven lined with small, smooth river pebbles, which gives the bottom of the bread a lovely dimpled texture.

ALONG THE DRAÂ VALLEY

what to do: drive slowly along the snaking, 80-mile-long riverine oasis of date palms and high-walled earthen compounds.

to buy: date marmalade.

best souk along valley: Agdz. It is held on Thursdays.

most luxurious and secluded place to stay: Dar Ahlam in the Skoura Oasis. Relais & Châteaux boutique property.


ZAGORA

to stay in a pisé house in the medina at the edge of the palm grove: Dar Raha.

what to do: ask Antoine at Dar Raha to arrange a guide to take you through the labyrinth palm grove.

to eat: “Berber tagine” of eggs and vegetables.

souk day: Sunday. Don’t miss. Best in entire region, drawing from desert and Anti-Atlas hills.

what is customary to receive as a visitor in someone’s home: dates and a glass of milk.

All text and images are ©Jeff Koehler 2007-2009 and cannot be used without his written permission.