FÈS

stay: Riad Maison Bleue.

best selection of salads: Riad Amine Fès.

cooking classes: La Maison Bleue.

number of lanes in the medina: 9,500.

will I get lost: I hope so.

top tagine: chicken khadra, with plenty of onions and almonds in a buttery saffron sauce.

top street food: maakouda, potato fritters.

or: stuffed spleen, a local favorite.

best rotisserie chicken: in Ville Nouvelle at Chicken Mac.

to go with the chicken: the white beans in tomato sauce.

buy from the kids: the pickled plums kids offer from plastic jars.

another use from fresh mint besides tea: to press to nose when visiting tanneries.

MEKNÈS

shop: Meknès’s covered market is one of the best in Morocco.

market treats: olives, preserved lemons, and some of best fresh herbs anywhere.

AZROU

stay: Hôtel Panorama, on the outskirts of town. Roaring log fire in winter.

eat: local Atlas trout stuffed with carrots and bay leaves at Hôtel Panorama.

also unique : brochettes of kefta that has some fresh mint blended in.

souq day: Tuesday. Excellent with a strong Berber flavor.